Growing up, as a young black
woman in KZN, I was exposed to many different female stereotypes. For my
sisters and I, the idea of a woman’s role being submissive and all-obedient to
the man conflicted with what we desired. At family functions, the girls were
meant to be in the kitchen, or take care of the children. Our mothers had to
wrap their heads and wear long skirts or dresses in the presence of men. The
very notion of the man having to “bring home the bacon” has haunted me day and
night for as long as I can remember because my dreams were bigger than that. I
wanted success, control and power. Maybe I’m a feminist, but that’s okay
because I wanted to break free from those stereotypes. I wanted to challenge
the status quo.
My dad wears a suit every
single day, even on a Saturday. He used to say that we should show success not
only in the way we speak but also in the way we carry ourselves. He is one of
the most successful men I know, not because he is blessed with wealth but
because he has come through the toughest of times and has made a name for
himself, one that has earned him great respect from his peers. This is why I’ve
always associated a suit with class, power and most importantly success. But
there is something so alluring and dominating about a woman in a suit. She is
fearless yet comforting, gentle yet cut-throat and at the same time, sexy and
sophisticated: she reminds me of my mother.
My mother has always
encouraged me to dream big. She understands success and when I was growing up,
just like my father, she wore a pantsuit to work every day. In a work
environment that encouraged the female norms, she pushed through and dared to
be different. She challenged “the man” as a confident Zulu woman, how
rebellious, how powerful. What inspires me most about a woman in a suit is that
a woman in suit is every woman. She is the breadwinner, the mother, the wife, the
successful career woman and most importantly she is a fighter.
The driving force and very
stylish leader of the pack for this look has always been Yves Saint Laurent.
The rebellious designer captured a movement through his classical “Le Smoking”
tuxedo suit for women. This late 60s collection was the first of its kind to
earn attention in the fashion world and in pop culture. It pioneered long,
androgynous, minimalist styles for women, which then led to power suits and
pantsuits in modern-day society. This look has been echoed in fashion photography
by photographers such as Helmut Newton who would photograph female models in
slicked-back hair and manly suits. These were all the signs of a change in
society. Yves Saint Laurent was seen by many as empowering women by giving them
the option to wear clothes that were ordinarily worn by men with influence and
power. This was a symptom of a need for a cultural and economic change for
society and women.
Although the look was
initially worn as formal business attire it trended into mainstream fashion
where elements of the look were mix-and-matched with other trends to keep the
look casual and light such as the waistcoat trend in 2009, the classic tailored
button down shirt trend, the more recent blazer and tailored women’s trouser
trend. These are all elements which emerged from the classic Le Smoking tuxedo
line.
YSL started a trend, rocked to
perfection by Sarah Jessica Parker in Sex in the City 2, the Kardashian
sisters, Beyonce and Rihanna. Designers such as Raf Simons, who debuted his first haute couture
collection for Christian Dior at the Paris Haute Couture Week in July 2012 and
from whom Dolce and Gabbana draw
inspiration from. Although this look was established in 1966 and trended
in 2008 it remains a classic today in 2012 for style-lovers all over the world.
And for as long as it continues to empower women like myself, this look will
remain as the metaphor for gender equality, and is here to stay.
For your viewing pleasure here is my
interpretation of the every woman.
Power to the sistas!
Lee
